Chanticleer - An Icon of Summer
Twenty-seven years ago, Jerry decided to show me his island home by moped. Town to Surfside to Tom Nevers to Sconset, where I refused to ride any further on the thrumming machine until we stopped for lunch. It was a gorgeous day in late June, and Sconset was in her glory. The tall trees lining the Main Street approach to the village spread like a lush canopy. Children dressed all in white and swinging tennis racquests swarmed out of the Casino after lessons. And everywhere you looked roses were in bloom.
Such a rare day deserved a memorable meal, and so we decided to splurge on lunch at The Chanticleer. Sitting at a shady table in their garden surrounded by flowers of all colors, we dined on Escargot, Tarte au Foie Gras, Grand Marnier Souffle, and Fresh Berries in Creme Anglaise. We both remember the day well.
Truly an icon of summer on Nantucket Island, The Chanticleer still serves memorable meals in this beautiful setting. The garden is a little different (the carousel horse has found a new home), but it is still gorgeous. Pink and white roses spill over the rooftops of the dining rooms, their sweet scent carried on the ocean breezes. The arbor still offers a shady respite from the mid-day sun. The food, lighter than what was served a quarter-century ago and prepared by different hands, still has a French accent and still makes a lasting impression.
The early summer lunch menu include five hors d’oeuvres and seven entrees and is about to be expanded. The delicate Beau Soleil Oysters are exquisitely presented on lemon slices, the sweet and buttery shellfish anointed with a creme fraiche, blood orange gelee, and accents of sevruga. Lobster Salad with juicy papaya, crunchy hearts of palm, and frisee in a curry-lime dressing is a delightful mix of textures full of bright, clean flavor.
A different Quiche du Jour is offered daily, and is often a garden-fresh combination at the whim of the chef. Tempting fillings recently served include sweet pepper with brie, spinach with homemade ricotta, and garden herb. Many of the herbs used are harvested fresh from their herb garden behind The Chanticleer.
Chicken Cobb Salad is another popular lunch entree. It’s a deconstructed version: the blue cheese next to the chicken, next to the avocado, next to the tomato, next to the wedge of iceberg, with egg along the side, bacon across the top, and a tangy red wine vinaigrette flavored with dijon and lavendar honey drizzled over all.
Entrance Gardens
Dinner at The Chanticleer is served from 6 p.m. As with lunch, seating is available in the garden or in one of their dining rooms: the open and airy upstairs Salon with views of Sconset and the rose garden; the cozy and less formal Grill Room by the bar area with it’s intimate Fireplace Room; and the elegant main Dining Room, with its carved marble fireplace, views of the rose garden, and sunny Porch overlooking the herb garden.
The sensational Oysters and Lobster Salad that we so enjoyed at lunch also appear on the dinner menu as hors d’oeuvres. We were sorely tempted, but decided we should taste a broader sample of The Chanticleer’s cuisine. One bite of Chef Jeff Worster’s Cod Beignets, and we were very glad we did. Made with a classic French brandade, dipped in beer batter, and fried, these puffs of cod are wonderfully crunchy on the outside and moist and creamy inside. The trio of beignets arrives set in a mellow sweet red pepper aioli, ideal for dipping. Suggested wine pairing: Bandel “Chateau Rohassan” Domaines Ott, 2004.
Outdoor dining available
Another outstanding first course is the Duck Confit. The duck is rich and full flavored—very well done, classic confit. Cooked till the skin is crisp and crackly, the duck is paired with brussels sprouts and served in a pool of dijon sauce. This dish sounds more appropriate for autumn than the height of summer, but after tasting it, we can’t imagine waiting for a certain time of year to savor this. The sprouts are beautifully green and nutty, their firm-tender texture delicious with the rich duck. The sauce, potent reduction of white wine, stock, dijon, shallots, and herbs, was too good to leave behind, so we made good use of the warm rolls brought to table. Suggested wine pairing: Beaujolais Village “Le Bouteau” 2005.
Main Dining Room
Nearly half the first course selections are salads. Chef Worster’s salads are not just tossed greens; they are beautifully fresh summer compositions of color and flavor. There’s a Bibb Salad with grapefruit and avocado, Wild and Baby Arugula with goat cheese and marinated strawberries, Roasted Beets over an iceberg wedge with roquefort, and, our favorite, the Caprese. A departure from the standard tomato-mozzarella-basil combination, this Caprese takes those classic flavors to new heights. Three thick, juicy slices of Bartlett Farm tomatoes are each topped with a slice of buffalo mozzarella, baby arugula, and slices of kumquat. Toasted pine nuts are strewn over and a lavendar honey and basil dressing finishes the dish. With every bite, the exciting flavors blossom: tart, mellow, citrusy, nutty, sweet, bitter… This salad alone would draw us back to Sconset. Suggested wine pairing: Pinot Blanc Kuentz - Bas, 2004.
If the Duck Galantine is offered as an evening special during your visit to The Chanticleer, don’t hesitate to order it. Another French classic done to perfection, this “paté” of duck, chicken, and pork is studded with pistachios, carrot, sorrel, and herbs. It’s served with red wine poached pear and fresh raspberries, which make perfectly matched, light counterpoints to the rich slice of galantine. Suggested wine pairing: Pouilly Fumé, Chateau Favray, 2005.
Sunroom dining overlooking the herb garden
You can’t have a French restaurant without Steak Frites, and Chef Worster does this just right with a tender, succulent Niman Ranch Filet with maitre d’hotel butter melting lusciously overtop. The fries are hot and crisp, and a small salad of watercress and tomato is the simple accompaniment. Suggested wine pairing: Pomerol, Chateau Rouget, 1998.
Diver Scallops take on a new sophistication in the summer preparation. Poppy seeds are seared into the tops of the scallops, adding a nutty crunch to the tender, sweet shellfish. Served alongside are slices of boudin blanc en croute, the delicate veal and pork sausage wrapped in flaky pastry and topped with a red pepper mustard. A satiny fennel puree surrounds and heightens the sweet taste of the scallops. Suggested wine pairing: Pernand Vergelesses Blanc, 2002.
The herb gardens provides fine flavorings for many of the dishes served
The Carolina Mountain Trout is casual and creative. Swimming in a lemony browned butter, the trout is topped with haricots vert accented with toasted almonds and a chilled French potato salad, tangy with capers, cucumbers, carrot, and a dash of tabasco. A single hot, thick cut onion ring is thecrunchy garnish. Suggested wine pairing: Mersault Genevrieres 1er Cru, Domaine Latour Giraud, 2003.
A different Plat du Jour is offered each evening at The Chanticleer. The preparations change, but every Monday is veal, Tuesday is duck, Wendesday tagine, Thursday bourguignonne, Friday is fish, Saturday lamb, and Sunday bouillabaisse. And what a Bouillabaisse it is! This non-traditional version concentrates on lobster. The vegetable-based, saffron scented broth is light and summery and full of artichoke hearts, fennel, okra, carrots, onion, tomato, and fresh herbs. There’s a depth and complexity of flavor not found in traditional bouillabaisse. It’s served with a grilled crostini topped with red pepper aioli. A Suggested wine pairing: Cassis Blanc, Bagnol, 2004.
The intimate Fireplace Room
Dinner at The Chanticleer is best when taken leisurely, so don’t even think of skipping dessert. We recommend their Plats Fromage if you have companions to share it. A trio of cheeses (the selection changes: we were served epoisse, petit basque, and a fourme d’Ambert) is offered with spiced nuts, artisan fruit-nut bread, and local honeycomb.
We also very much enjoy the Composed Apple Tart Tatin, the puff pastry crisp and light, the apples soft and sweet, topped with vanilla bean ice cream and drizzles of caramel. Vanilla Pot de Creme with lavender madelines and is a light, sweet finish, and the Millefeuille of Chocolate Mousse, with chocolate chantilly cream, topped with fresh raspberries is heavenly.
The Chanticleer also has a fine selection of cognacs, ports, liqueurs, and dessert wines to add a smooth finish to your evening.
The Chanticleer
www.TheChanticleer.net
508-257-4499, reservations suggested, jackets preferred
Lunch served Tuesday through Sunday from noon to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner served nightly from 6 to 10 p.m.
Dinner entree prices range from $15 to $39
indoor and outdoor dining for lunch and for dinner
all French wine list • full liquor license • major credit cards accepted
facilities for private celebrations
