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Volume 37 Issue 8 • June 14 - 20, 2007 now in our 37th season

	In This Issue
	Features • Nantucket: for the Birds • Man Behind the Music • Banking Under the Stars • Limerick Challenge Events • Tour of Historic House • What's New & Happening Island Cooking • The Holidays Island Essay • Island in Winter Featured Restaurant Island Science

The Summer House -
Capturing the Essence of the Season

The first thing you notice about The Summer House is how very appropriate the name is.  Purple iris, alliums, sprays of pink and of yellow blooms, and white and golden honeysuckle surround the approach to the restaurant.  Soon bright orange lilies and fragrant pink and red roses will add to the color and beauty.  Chairs perfect for sitting and sipping champagne or cocktails punctuate the well-manicured lawn along the shell path up to the wide porch.  Added to this Monet-like beauty is a stunning view of the Atlantic and the relaxing, rhythmic sounds of the surf just over the ’Sconset Bluff.

Inside, The Summer House has an open, summery feel.  The bar and lounge area is casual, with plenty of comfy couches and upholstered chairs to relax and indulge in conversation and cocktails (try a Summer House Breeze), while enjoying the music of pianist Jamie Howarth.

The dining room has recently been freshened for an inviting, elegant look.  It’s spacious and bi-level, with gleaming wood floors, slowly rotating ceiling fans, fresh flowers, and colorful paintings by island artists.  The dining area just off the porch has a beautiful view of the lawn and the Atlantic Ocean beyond.  Patrons are comfortably seated in white chairs around tables with white linens, each simply adorned with a candle and a vase of fresh Peruvian lilies.  The Summer House captures the essence of the season.

The drive out to Siasconset Village adds the impression that you have escaped to a private retreat.  Eight miles is just enough distance to feel like you’ve gotten away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Nantucket without it being inconvenient.

Even knowing of the beauty of ’Sconset and the Summer House, truth be told, what really drew us out of town one recent June evening was the lure of the cuisine of Chef Raul Restrepo and the promise of an improved experience brought by new management of this ‘Sconset landmark.

Chef Restrepo is new to the Summer House main restaurant this season, but not new to Nantucket.  Several years ago his culinary magic drew patrons to the Summer House Beachside Bistro.  During the interim, Restrepo cooked in Palm Beach and Orlando.  We’re happy he’s brought his talents back to Nantucket.

We consider The Summer House a formal restaurant, but, in keeping with the relaxed attitude of most of Nantucket, jacket and tie are definitely optional.  If you do dress for dinner, however, you won’t feel out of place.  The wait staff is formally attired and has been well-coached in proper service.  They are attentive without hovering and work together well as a team to provide seamless service.

Chef Restrepo’s dinner menu emphasizes light summer fare in a culinary style that he describes as a “fusion of Mediterranean and Latin with a bit of French.”  He makes full use of the island’s fresh produce and fresh fish, and soups, sauces, dressings—even the pasta—are made in-house.  Somehow, even with his minimal use of butter and cream, Chef Restrepo’s entrees are full-flavored and sophisticated. 

	Soups here are particularly good.  The Amontillado Sherry Lobster Bisque  is the very essence of lobster.  Deep in color as well as flavor, the soup has great body without being thick and overbearing.  The amontillado lends soft, nutty undertones to this velvety smooth bisque.  Chunks of lobster meat and a drizzle of creme fraiche finish it. Beverage Director Scott Coleman, who arranged for the perfect wine pairings throughout our meal, uncorked a Chalone Vineyard Pinot Noir, a light, dry wine, crafted from estate grown grapes.
	We also sampled a special Asparagus and Cilantro Pureé.  This soup is beautifully balanced:  the asparagus grounds it with a fresh garden flavor and the cilantro gives it a lift, brightens it, so that it does not simply taste of asparagus.  In fact, the two flavors blend together to offer a taste of springtime.
	Salads are also impressive at The Summer House.  There is a Classic Caesar with white anchovies.  Summer Greens come adorned with figs, and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano.  Our favorite is the gorgeous Heirloom Tomato Salad.  Thick, juicy slices of ruby red, golden, and purple heirlooms are arranged across peppery arugula tossed in a puckery balsamic vinaigrette.  Deliciously astringent and tangy couturier goat cheese, lightly toasted, is crumbled overtop.
	Not exactly a salad, but cool and garden-fresh, is the White Asparagus and House-Cured Gravlax.  Presented on a dramatic black triangular plate and nestled on a bed of mixed greens, the thin white spears are chilled and crisp.  Draped across the bottom of the asparagus is the salmon, with just a drizzle of lemon and olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt and freshly ground pepper.  This appetizer is a superbly light way to begin the meal.
	Coleman brought out a Groth Sauvignon Blanc to accompany the chilled appetizers.  Dry and to the point, this white wine held up nicely to the acidity of our next appetizer:  Shrimp Scallops, and Sea Bass Ceviche.  Served in a martini glass, the chilled combination of fish and shellfish is clean and fresh and summery.  Thinly sliced red onion and tiny bits of red and green pepper, and a touch of cilantro add to the bright citrusy flavor.
	Our first taste of Chef Restrepo’s hand-crafted pasta was in the trattoria classic Capellini Vongole with Truffle Oil.  Like most of Chef Restrepo’s dishes, this is simple and very well done.  The tiny clams are fresh and tender, the sauce light and fragrant with garlic, a whisper of truffle, and just enough chopped parsley.  This was served to us with linguini, and we prefer it this way:  the house-made pasta is sensational and the linguini holds the garlicky sauce better.
	About to be added to the menu is a spectacular Chestnut Ravioli Caprese.  Chef Restrepo send out a sample plate for us to try, and it immediately went to the top of our list of favorites.  Made with chestnut flour, the ravioli pasta has an appealing sweetness that was sensational with the nutty, rich filling of fontina, asiago, and parmesan.  The raviolis are served in a sauce of sage, lemon, and tomato.
	Chef Restrepo is justfiably proud of his Italian Tagliolini with Veal Ragu.  Traditionally hearty, Restrepo’s summertime version is lighter with no sacrifice of flavor.  Another spectacular entree pairs the housemade pasta with shellfish in Linguini with Lobster, Clams, Shrimp, and Scallops Fra Diavolo.  This daring dish is not as fiery as some fra diavolos—the heat builds gradually, complementing the seafood rather than overpowering it.  Each element is cooked to its peak: succulent shrimp, tender clams, sweet scallops cooked lightly, and moist lobster.
	The Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon, round and harmonious, brought to table by Scott Coleman was fantastic with this entree, and with the Veal Chop Stuffed with Asparagus and Fontina — one of Chef Restrepo’s showcase entrees.  The thick chop is slightly charred and crisp on the edges, and admirably moist and tender on the inside.  A potent scallion and veal reduction forms a luscious pool along the side. The creamy fontina oozes deliciously out of the chop around the roasted asparagus.  We thought the veal was served on mashed potatoes until we detected a subtle sweetness and discovered it was a marvelous blend of potato and boniato.
	The tempting aroma of the Roasted Chicken with Moroccan Spices turned heads as it was brought to table.  Cumin, cloves, tumeric, cinnamon, allspice, curry, cardamon, and more...combine for an exotic swirl of scent and flavor that makes this moist chicken otherworldly.  It too is served on the mash of potato and boniato, with an assortment of spring vegetables tucked alongside.
	One mouthful is all you need to understand why the Grilled Alaskan Salmon has already become a favorite among The Summer House patrons.  The honest and clear flavors of this dish just sing.  The thick grilled salmon steak is served over arugula.  Heaped overtop are housemade zucchini chips, thin, crisp, salty, and a delicious counterpoint to the moist, hot salmon. Paired with the chicken and the salmon was a fruity and nicely balanced Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.
	Don’t skip dessert at The Summer House!  If you find you’ve eaten too well, order the Seasonal Berries with Sabayon or the Sorbet & Ice Cream. Another light choice is the Key Lime Pie.  The sweet-tart-creamy filling is supported by a thin graham crust and topped with a single ripe strawberry.  The Creme Bruleé is a classic treat:  perfect satiny custard topped with a perfectly caramelized sugar crust.
	If you have a bit more room, the Lemon and Mixed Berries Cheesecake comes highly recommended.
	And if you indulge completely with the Chocolate Truffle Marquis, then go just a bit further and order with it a glass of raspberry Aqua Perfecta eau de vie.