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Volume 37 Issue 16 • August 10-16, 2007 now in our 37th season

	In This Issue

TOPPER'S - A Very Special Place for Any Occasion

Even on a beautiful island like Nantucket, there are certain places to go for special occasions. TOPPER’S at the Wauwinet is one of them! Exquisitely positioned on the northern tip of the island, between the Atlantic Ocean and the Harbor with the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge and Great Point Lighthouse just beyond, the Wauwinet Inn is an oasis of civility in the wilder reaches of our island. It is the perfect escape for both visitors and residents, where guests can relax in elegance.

On the recent evening we spent at TOPPER’S, we were seated next to a couple taking a New England vacation who came to Nantucket specifically to dine at TOPPER’S. They cruised out to the restaurant on the Wauwinet Lady to celebrate their anniversary, then cruised back to town to catch the 10 pm ferry to the Cape. “It was so worth the trip!” they told us enthusiastically. “We’ll be back next year and stay overnight.”

Across the dining room was a couple we knew: year-round island residents, business owners taking a little “vacation” from the madness of downtown in August who gave us a knowing look and a smile. We were in on the secret.

The entrance to TOPPER’S is through a lush garden and across a covered deck, where cocktails and dining include a spectacular view of the harbor and a sky painted with color at sunset. The main dining room and adjacent sun room are exquisitely decorated in blue and white and cream, the walls adorned with large paintings of country images, including a portrait of the owners’ dog, for whom the restaurant was named. Tables are set with crystal, linen, and fine custom-made French porcelain. Fresh flowers add splashes of bright color.

Dress for TOPPER’S is best described as “Nantucket formal”: jackets and ties are optional, but men are expected to wear dress shirts. At lunch, a meal of relaxed sophistication here, resort wear is appropriate. The understated elegance of TOPPER’S is complimented by impeccable service reminiscent of a bygone era when warmth and courtesy were natural extensions of dining. The staff is attentive without being intrusive and skilled at anticipating the needs of their guests. They are knowlegeable about the menu and ready with descriptions and suggestions. In grand style, food is brought out on multi-tiered silver pendulum servers, cocktails on Turkish espresso makers.

TOPPER’S serves a prix fixe dinner—three courses with enhancements available like Butter Poached Lobster Tails that tempt you to design your own “surf’n turf.”

You can also indulge completely and order the Chef’s Tasting Menu with wine pairings. Cellar Master Craig Hanna has spent 14 years building the sensational wine list at TOPPER’S. It is one of just 74 Grand Award winners in the world, and, in comparison with the other Grand Award lists, is moderately priced. “I had a French gentleman in recently, and he spent quite some time reading the wine list,” said Sommelier Jeremy Gramling, “finally he said to me ‘I don’t see these prices in France, and I can’t get these wines in France.’ This is as special as it gets!”

Only a stellar list would be up to the cuisine of accomplished executive chef David Daniels. Widely known for his talent with seafood, his creative preparations, and for his artful presentations, dinner at TOPPER’S is definitely one of life’s finer pleasures.

Dinner begins with an amuse bouche from Chef David Daniels that changes each evening at the whim of the chef. The chilled melon and coconut soup we were served was deliciously reviving after a hot summer day.

	There are eight selections for first course, along with an evening special. And in just those choices, Chef Daniels manages to cover an impressive range of tastes. Hightly recommended is the Creamy Lobster and Summer Onion Soup. Luxuriously rich and deeply flavored with an aroma that turns heads, this soup is the very essence of lobster with sweet hints of onion. In the center is a portion of chilled lobster salad, scented with truffle oil and delightfully crunchy with bits of onion and celery. Truly a lobsterlover’s treat!
	Another excellent choice is the signature Truffled Rigatoni and Cheeses. The pasta is filled with a combination of aged gruyere and gouda, and piped overtop is a finely textured pouligny chevre. The dish is broiled to give it an appealing crusty edge and is served with a smear of tomato puree. It’s easy to understand how this has become a patron favorite. Suggested wine pairing: 2004 Hall Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley.
	The Roasted Day Boat Scallops is a stunning way to start. Cupped in a scallop shell is a pair of fresh sea scallops, gorgeously seared to caramelize their ends - their centers just warm and moist and sweet. They’re bathed in a buttery meuniere studded with tiny crisp bits of housemade lardo, and a parmesan foam adds the look of the sea and a taste of the land. Suggested wine pairing: 2003 Lispida, Amphora, Friuli Italy.
	The chilled appetizers are also very appealing. Tomato, Tomato, Tomato, not surprisingly, is Chef Daniels’ version of a tomato salad. Constructed from six different heirloom tomatoes, all capturing the taste of summer sunshine at their peak of ripeness. The crowning touch is glacé au fromage de chevre, deliciously cold and adding just the right flavor to this refreshing salad as it melts down around the tomatoes.
	Toro, Toro, Toro, prepared with one of the most prized portions of the bluefin tuna, is another favorite. The crisp wrapping around the spicy tuna roll is a superb contrast to the tender chopped tuna folded with spicy mayonnaise tucked inside. Placed on top of each slice is a buttery-tender cube of toro, glistening in its freshness. The roll is served with just enough edamame and black truffle emulsions to tickle your senses. Suggested wine pairing: 2006 Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee Ste. Catherine, Domaine Weinbach, Alsace.
	Our table favorite among the appetizers is the Spanish Iberian Ham. Only recently permitted into the country, this crown jewel of Spanish ham has an exquisite flavor: rich and soft, yet distinct and far superior to prosciutto. The thin slices are presented with sweet and juicy melon balls, marcona almonds, and a deep-fried zucchini blossom stuffed with truffled ricotta cheese. Tucked underneath is an emulsion of goat cheese. Suggested wine pairing: 2006 Martin Codax, Albarino, Rias Baixas.
	As with the first course, Chef Daniels has dishes to satisfy any palate in the eight he offers for the main course. Piggly Wiggly is a trio of pork prepared in house with suckling pig from the renowned Four Story Hill Farms. This entree provides tastings of a succulent and slightly smoky chop, a lusciously tender sous vide shoulder, and a full flavored, deliciously layered pork belly. Served overtop is a ravioli of egg yolk, which, when cut, drizzles its golden goodness down over the pork. Creamy emulsion of sweet corn topped with fresh fig is served alongside. Suggested wine pairing: 1996 Chateau d'Ampuis, Cote Rotie, E. Guigal, Rhone Valley.
	It might be gilding the lily to top the grass-fed natural Sirloin Steak from Wood Creek Farms with shaved foie, but it makes for an entree that is absolute bliss. Thick yet fork-tender and perfectly timed, this steak would be sensational even without the foie gras. Slow cooked cheeks are the meltingly tender accompaniment, making this a beef lover’s dream. Splurge and order Truffled Tator Tots alongside. Chef Daniels’ crunchy morsels will have you remembering this childhood treat in whole new light. Suggested wine pairing: 2005 Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley.
	Nathan, our server, couldn’t say enough about the Skillet Roasted Daurade Royale. Very popular in Europe, and newly added to the menu, the moist filets stand up very well to strong flavors. Thin slices of potato laid across the filets add a crisp crust. The fish is served on spectacular stir fry of succulent little Maine shrimp, salty bacon, and wilted greens over truffled cauliflower. Suggested wine pairing: 2005 Bruno Clavelier, Bourgogne Aligote Vielles Vignes, Burgundy.
	We adored the rich flavors and the wonderful textures of the Kataifi Wrapped White Prawns. The shredded phyllo dough surrounding the sweet, plump packet of shrimp and lobster farci is crisp and golden, and is anointed tableside with a fragrant foie sauce. The kataifi prawns were served on a fresh-tasting fruit sauce studded with grapefruit wedges and pork belly. Suggested wine pairing: Paul Goerg Rose Champagne (MV).
	Pastry Chef Serge Torres presides over the final course at TOPPER’S, and as you would expect, the Chocolate Coconut Tart is intoxicatingly good.
	The Bananas in Napoleon is a fun play on that rich dessert simply using caramelized slices of banana and crisp pastry leaves served alongside peppercorn ice cream.
	Candied Cherry Tomatoes are tucked into a curl of perfect meringue and topped with candied thyme for another of the stellar desserts.
	For a simple finish, there’s a trio of ice creams with tuille cookies.