A Splash from Your Nantucket Sommelier
Wine to Beat the Heat
by Leslie-Ann Sheppard
owner of The Cellar on Surfside Road.
In case you haven’t heard the idle chatter, it has been pretty darn hot and humid this summer. The air has been so hot and heavy, that in fact sometimes it even seems difficult to muster up the energy to turn a corkscrew into a sealed bottle of wine and pull the cork. Luckily for those extreme situations, there are also now many fine wines bottled under Stelvyn closure—screwcap for the layperson. But when it’s this hot and even nearly oppressive, which wines can do the job of providing refreshment? Are wines thirst quenching? Which ones perform well under these difficult-to-please conditions?
Unfortunately, the alcohol in wine does not by definition make it thirst quenching. But, there are certainly some wines that seem more appropriate than others for never-ending heat waves.
We can look to Mediterranean climes for inspiration in times like this. There it is hot for much of the year, and certainly no shortage of wine and wine drinkers. This is where rosé was born. Red wine grapes grow all over the south of France, in much greater proportion to white wine grapes. Red grapes fare better in the sunny hot conditions than their fair skinned relatives. Rosé was born out of the desire to drink something cool and crisp, and the winemakers realized this could be achieved with the abundance of juice from their red grapes by limiting the time of contact between grape skins and juice. Rosé wines are a great answer to the question of what to drink during this heavy weather.
White wines are the other obvious category of wine that provides refreshment during hot weather. Pulling a bottle from a refrigerator or a cooler is much more appealing now than at any other time of year, even for a mostly-red wine drinker like myself. And there are certain whites more than others that rank high in terms of their ability to revive. Personally I find whites that are crisp and lighter bodied more satisfying right now than buttery, heavier styles.
The Iberian Peninsula has some great go-to white wines for hot weather. Albariño, native to the northwest of Spain and famous in the commune of Rias Baixas, is one of my hot weather favorites. Sometimes albariño is scented with peaches, but the style I prefer is leaner on the peach and emphasis on the minerality. Another interesting Spanish white is Txakolina, made in the Basque region. Brisk, racy, and even a bit spritzy, it is amazing with sushi, or spicy foods. And from Portugal, Vinho Verde is a good option for summer sipping. Pale- almost clear- it is meant to be served quite cold and can be versatile and very refreshing.
France of course has abundant options for wines that pair well with hot and humid. Alsace specializes in German varietals like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Riesling. Styles can vary greatly, but it is not difficult to find one to please your palate. The Loire Valley is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc- the two best known appellations are Sancerre for the former and Vouvray for the latter. There are also many excellent, lesser known appellations within the Loire, and it is possible to find very high quality wines at good value prices.
Somehow I never have a problem drinking white Burgundy, no matter what the heat index. Chardonnay from Burgundy can be buttery, but with good producers, the wine is in balance, always with crisp acidity. Whites from the Mâconnais – in the southern part of Burgundy tend to be leaner styles, many of them aged in stainless steel rather than oak barrels.
The Languedoc region of France has a great picnic white called Picpoul de Pinet, along with lots of country whites, some of which are quite refreshing. Viognier, colombard, and clairette are often blended into lovely whites or are singularly vinified for inexpensive and sometimes very good wine.
From Italy, Pinot Grigio is king of the whites according to consumer popularity, but there are so many more interesting whites to tickle your palate when the air is hot and heavy. Arneis from the Piedmont region is a favorite of mine. Or try a Gavi di Gavi. From Tuscany, Vernaccia can stand up to the humidity. And from down South, try a Falanghina, or Vermentino from the islands.
The Southern Hemisphere is perhaps better known worldwide for its red wines, like Argentinean malbec, Chilean carmenere, New Zealand Pinot Noir, and Australian Shiraz, but it can be a go to for quality Sauvignon blanc. New Zealand became well known for its grassy, grapefruity style of ‘Sauvvy B’ but there are also excellent Rieslings produced there and in Australia.
As the U.S. wine industry is as eclectic as can be, it is possible to find many of the aforementioned grape varietals from California, Oregon, or Washington. But again, I opt for crisp, leaner versions of the wines in general. Nothing too cloying to weigh down the already burdened countenance. There is a time and a place for a heavy, vanilla-toned chardonnay, just as there is a time and a place for braised meats, hot chocolate, and wool coats. We’ll think about that a few months down the road.
There are of course times when a red wine is what you want, no matter how hot you are. I recommend chilling reds for a half hour or so before drinking, since room temperature right now is far from ideal for serving red wine. Some reds are notable for drinking really well with a slight chill- Beaujolais and Pinot Noir are the top two. But I think all reds taste better when served between 55 and 65 degrees. Another important tip for heat waves is to stay away from overly tannic reds; drying the palate out is not going to pair well with heat and humid conditions.
Sparkling wine is another good option for refreshment in the heat of summer. No corkscrew needed with the bubbles; just untwist and enjoy. What better way to savor the moment, rather than dwell on the discomfort of the heat? Go ahead, let the cork fly off into tomorrow.
