Catch of the Day
by Leslie-Ann Sheppard
owner of The Cellar on Surfside Road.
It’s official… the stripers have arrived. At this time each year I’m amused by the fishermen’s banter about the ‘schoolies’ and the ‘keepers’ and where they are, when they arrive, etc. As I’m married to one said fisherman I get to hear a little more about it than perhaps the average person. And my thoughts turn to… wine!
On Nantucket we are blessed with an abundant fishery surrounding our island. In the summertime our waters become thick with an amazing population of fish. Striped bass, bluefish, bonito, and even blue fin tuna are in the area. Is there anything better than getting out onto the open water, stalking and reeling in your own fish? The only thing better that I can think of is choosing the perfect wine to celebrate your catch.
Options abound for fishing on Nantucket. You can stand on many beaches and cast into the surf, hoping to pull a blue or a bass from the waves. You can charter one of many fine fishing captains to take you and your nearest and dearest out into the blue, either sight fishing on the flats or spin casting off shore. That’s where you’re more likely to hook into some of the prized bonito or blue fin tuna. Or of course you can head out on your own vessel, if you’re fortunate enough to have that option. The benefit of hiring a guide is that you can focus entirely on fishing, and leave the navigation to the captain.
So, once you have your fish, what next? The purest, most ‘primal’ way to eat your fish is sashimi style — yes: filleting and eating it raw. Tuna and bonito are best for this style. The perfect beverage? A chilled white wine with high acidity. Wines like Spanish Albarino or Txakoli are sensational, as are Sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or the Loire Valley, France. Also appropriate is Muscadet (also from The Loire) or Vinho Verde from Portugal. The crisp flavors and high acid is like adding a squeeze of fresh lemon to your catch.
If you choose to enhance your sashimi with a bit of soy sauce and wasabi, try a white with a touch of sweetness. The knee-jerk reaction choice is a Riesling. Choose one that has enough acidity to balance the sweetness. A hint for doing so: check the alcohol content. Low alcohol (below 11%) will mean that the fermentation was stopped before all of the grapes’ sugars converted to alcohol, thus, a wine with remaining residual sugar. A Riesling with alcohol content above 11% will likely still have some sweetness, but will have more acidity. Look for German, Austrian, or Alsatian Riesling. Another delicious option is a Vouvray, a Loire Valley white made from Chenin Blanc. Or try a Spanish Moscatel.
If bluefish and bass are your catch, or if you prefer to cook the prized tuna or bonito, the method of cooking will have bearing on choosing the perfect wine. Searing fillets in a hot skillet and finishing the process in the oven is a great way to taste the pure flavors of the fish and keep it pretty simple. Adding fresh herbs and garden vegetables makes an amazing dinner. White wines are still the rule of thumb here, but you can add some ‘fat’ to the dish by adding beefier whites. Chardonnay from California or Burgundy comes to mind immediately. Again, you are adding a condiment to your plate by adding layers of different fruit flavors, and a dash of ‘butteriness.’ Other interesting options include Gewurtztraminer or Gruner Veltliner from Austria, which will add some sweeter tones and a bit of spice.
Rosé wines also pair excellently with fresh fish dishes. Flavors of the Mediterranean come alive when olive oil, capers, or tomatoes are added to fish, and this calls for an enticing glass of dry rosé. Many of the better Provencal rosés suggest a slight sense of the salt air from their native land; and this pairs naturally with our native catch.
Finally, if you are going for a more complicated preparation for your fresh catch, consider a light bodied red wine. Marinating fish is an excellent way to enhance all of its natural goodness, while adding more flavor and complexity. There are so many different marinades and dry rubs that it would be impossible to discuss all of the possibilities, but suffice it to say that more flavor on your plate can stand up to more flavor in your wine glass. Popular preparations like sesame seed ‘crust’ or olive tapenade marinades are magnificent when paired with Chianti or Beaujolais. Also perfect are pinot noir from Oregon or of course, from Burgundy. These can be served with a slight chill so that the flavors completely harmonize – the freshness of the fish with the fresh fruit of young reds. Red wines can also add spice, earthiness, and many come with a pleasant, lasting linger.
What are you waiting for? Summer moves very fast, so take advantage now of the natural bounty that Nantucket offers. And don’t forget the most important condiment for your fresh fish—the wine.
