Don DeMarco has done it again!
Just a few weeks ago, DeMarco Restaurant on India Street opened the door on its 33rd season as the island restaurant to go to for fine Northern Italian cuisine. Fresh, local ingredients are emphasized in dishes that are creatively prepared, artistically presented, and absolutely delicious down to every vegetable and accompaniment.
The dining room has a rustic feel with a touch of sophistication and a cozy, comfortable ambiance. Slowly rotating brass fans hang from wood beam ceilings, and exposed brick and wood panel walls are adorned with colorful canvases painted by Don. The 10-seat bar is set slightly apart, and is known for its summer cocktails. It's a favorite spot for islanders to come for a cocktail and appetizer or half-portion of pasta before the theatre or after a gallery opening. The upstairs dining room is well-designed for large parties and has an intimate alcove that is perfect for small semi-private celebrations. Don DeMarco is often present to greet guests with his warm hospitality, a playful sense of humor, and a sincere enthusiasm for fine dining that makes the evening extra special.
Service at DeMarco is smooth and gracious. Nick, our server, was attentive and quick to provide thorough descriptions without being the slightest bit intrusive. This is one of the few island restaurants that consistently offers high quality of both food and service that residents and visitors expect.
We began our evening at DeMarco nibbling on freshly baked focaccia as we perused the menu. This simple detail was a harbinger of the superb meal to come—the foccacia was warm and golden-brown, with a moist crumb, light texture, and sea salt top. It was especially good dipped into a fruity, imported olive oil—we had to take care not to fill up!
The DeMarco wine list also deserves mention. Wines are personally selected to complement the Northern Italian cuisine, and the list includes Italian and domestic selections priced to be approachable, from a $32 fresh and clean Regaleali Bianco, Tasca d'Almerita to a delightful Montepulciano d'Abruzzo at $148. In addition, there are several half bottles and a fine selection of wines by the glass.
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Appetizers at DeMarco are deliciously different and illustrate the talents of DeMarco Chef Jarrod Wigren. Even the Tuna Tartar that we ordered was unlike any we've previously tried. The large pieces of sparklingly fresh tuna are tossed with lemon verbena and topped with finely diced banana peppers. The heat of the pepper contrasts with the cool, clean flavor of the sashimi-grade tuna, livening up the appetizer without dominating it. Even the tartar's accompaniment is unique: puffed and crispy flatbread instead of crackers. |
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One of our all-time favorites at DeMarco is The Fried Green and Ugly Tomatoes — a luscious stack of sliced, juicy red tomato and breaded and fried green tomato with basil, fresh mozzarella, and aged balsamic to make the flavors sing. Our opinion is shared by so many that DeMarco would risk an uprising if he ever took it off the menu! This appetizer should be on everyone's list of "must-haves" on Nantucket. |
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We've tasted Arancini at other island eateries, but they were nothing like what is served here. The kitchen at DeMarco forms these small spheres using Italian Nano rice studded with diced crimini mushrooms, whose earthy flavor permeates the rice. Their browned exteriors have a satisfying crunchiness, while the insides are warm and creamy. A drizzle of white truffle honey adds a tantalizing whisper of sweetness to each bite. DeMarco's arancini have spoiled us, now that we know how good these little treats can be in the hands of a talented chef!
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Another winning choice for appetizer is the Bruschetta. The chef changes his preparation for this classic antipasto frequently. We savored a version with garlic-rubbed grilled focaccia laden with peeled, roasted plum tomatoes whose sweet flavor was delicious with salty crumbles of goat cheese and marinated artichokes.
A refreshing break between courses came when Nick served us each a scoop of housemade lemon sorbet. |
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DeMarco is serious about their pasta: it's handmade, perfectly cooked, and well-matched to the preparation. Bolognese and Boscaiola are highly recommended—both are full of flavor and very rich, and, in a half-portion, both make delectable second courses. New among the offerings this season is a reimagining of Veal Ossobucco into a pasta dish that has all the hearty flavor of this classic without the bone. Big chunks of braised veal, delightfully moist and tender, are tossed with whole wheat fettucine and swiss chard in a deeply flavorful sauce. A handful of crispy onions tops off the entree. |
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DeMarco always includes at least one vegetarian dish among its selections. On the current menu it takes the form of Ravioli. The delicate pasta is filled with spring greens and creamy marscarpone cheese and is served in a pool of fresh tomato puree with a touch of lemon verbena that tastes of summer sunshine. Confit tomatoes and fresh parmesan finish the dish. |
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Also very good is the Fluke entreé. Light yet substantial, it's a colorful composition and a showcase of Mediterranean delights. The cornmeal crusted fish is laid across white bean puree, rapini, and tomato confit, and topped with briny kalamata olives, pine nuts, and tender celery hearts. A whole roasted tomato is nestled alongside. Every forkful of this medley has a different and delightful flavor. |
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We were also very impressed by the Pan-Seared Sea Scallops. Beautifully seared top and bottom, with their succulent centers just cooked through, these treasures from the sea need little adornment. The chef simply serves them with grilled asparagus and a lemon butter sauce over creamy carnaroli rice with a bit of parmesan stirred in.
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Not here last night and perhaps not tomorrow made us feel very lucky that we got to taste the chef's special Roasted Rabbit Loin. So often rabbit is served as a component of a dish—in this entreé it's the star of the show. Memorably moist and tender, the loin was sliced and served over creamy polenta with rabbit leg confit and maitake mushrooms served alongside. |
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After multiple courses at DeMarco, their creamy Tiramisu is the perfect ending. |
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But you could also consider one of their light and refreshing housemade Sorbets... |
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...or their intensely vanilla Ice Cream (the best we've had). |
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If you like your dessert dark and delicious, then you simply must order DeMarco's perfectly executed Molten Chocolate Cake with strawberries. |
Through June 10, in honor of Spring Restaurant Week, DeMarco is offering a three-course prix fixe menu for just $40 in addition to their regular menu. Appetizer choices include both the Fried Green and Ugly Tomatoes and the Arancini; and among the entree selections are DeMarco's legendary Boscaiola and a delicious Scampi prepared with succulent white shrimp, sweet roasted tomatoes, spring garlic, and preserved lemon. Dessert is their marvelous Molten Lava Cake with fresh strawberries.
DeMarco Restaurant
9 India Street • 508-228-1836
www.demarcorestaurant.com
Dinner served nightly from 6 pm • Full Bar opens at 6 pm
Entree prices range from $24 to $38
Open seasonally May through October
Families Welcome • MasterCard, Visa, Amex accepted
